Southern blight is one of the most frustrating problems I deal with in my garden here in Trinidad. Plants look healthy one day… and collapse the next—even when the soil is moist.
How I know it’s Southern Blight
I look right at the soil line. The signs are usually there:
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Sudden wilting
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Soft rot at the base of the stem
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White, fluffy growth around the stem
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Tiny tan or brown “mustard seed” balls on the soil
Once I see this, the plant rarely recovers.
What Causes Southern Blight?
It’s caused by a soil fungus that loves:
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Heat
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Humidity
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Poor drainage
The fungus can survive in soil for years, so quick action really matters.
What I Do Right Away
To stop it from spreading:
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Remove infected plants completely (roots and all)
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Don’t compost them—bag and dispose
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Clean tools after handling infected plants
How I Manage It Long-Term
1️⃣ Improve Drainage
Southern blight thrives in wet soil.
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Space plants well
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Avoid mulch touching stems
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Water at the base, not overhead
2️⃣ Use Limestone Carefully
Southern blight prefers acidic soil.
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Limestone raises pH and discourages the fungus
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It also adds calcium and helps clay soil over time
Here in Trinidad, fine limestone (like Enlasa’s) works quickly because it dissolves fast.
Tip: Work it into the soil and water it in. Keep it away from plant stems.
3️⃣ Build Better Soil
Clay soil + moisture = trouble.
I add organic matter regularly:
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Compost
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Aged manure
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Leaf mould
Raised or slightly mounded beds help a lot—especially for bodi, tomatoes, and sorrel.
4️⃣ Rotate Crops
I avoid planting susceptible crops in the same spot every season.
Better options include:
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Corn
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Chives
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Amaranthus(Bhaji)
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Cassava and sweet potato
The Takeaway
Southern blight is tough—but manageable.
What works best in my garden:
✔ Fast removal
✔ Better drainage
✔ Limestone (in moderation)
✔ Healthy soil
Once the soil improves, the plants do too 🌱
Happy Gardening!
The Grey-Haired Gardener
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