Kumquats: The Citrus You Eat Skin and All

                                                            Sun ripened kumquats on the tree             

I’ll admit it—I check my kumquats every single day.
Not because I don’t trust them, but because watching them slowly colour up on the tree is one of those small garden joys that never gets old.

If you’ve ever wondered what a kumquat is, how to grow one, or when it’s actually ready to pick, this tiny citrus deserves a closer look.

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What Exactly Is a Kumquat?

Kumquats are small citrus fruits, but they break all the usual citrus rules.
Instead of peeling them, you eat them whole—skin and all.

The peel is sweet, the flesh is tart, and together they create a surprisingly balanced flavour. They’re bite-sized, bright, and once you get used to them, a little addictive.

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Why Kumquats Are Perfect for Home Gardens

One of the things I love most about kumquats is how well they behave in small spaces.

They are:

• Naturally compact

• Very productive for their size

• Excellent for container growing

• Well-suited to patios, balconies, and small gardens

Even a single tree can carry a generous crop, which makes kumquats a great choice for home gardeners who want fruit without needing a large yard.

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A Quick Garden Note: Seeds vs Grafted Plants

This is worth knowing if you’re tempted to plant a seed.

Kumquats are not reliably true to type when grown from seed. That means a seed-grown plant may not produce fruit identical to the parent—flavour, size, and quality can vary.

My tree is grafted. I started with a cutting from a fellow gardener and grafted it onto Cleopatra Mandarin rootstock. The graft took, and the tree has been healthy and productive ever since.

Grafted plants are generally the better option if you want consistent results and good fruit quality.

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Growing Kumquats: The Basics

Kumquats are not fussy, but they do have a few non-negotiables.

Sun:
They love bright, full sun.

Water:
Regular watering is important, especially for potted plants, but good drainage is essential. Soggy roots and citrus do not get along.

Soil:
Well-draining soil is key. Whether in the ground or in a pot, drainage makes all the difference.

Feeding:
A citrus-friendly fertilizer keeps the leaves healthy and supports flowering and fruiting.

They grow well in tropical climates like the Caribbean and are also popular with gardeners in temperate regions.

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Flowering, Fruiting, and Patience

Citrus teaches patience.

After flowering, small green fruits appear and then take their time slowly developing and changing colour. It’s normal to see green, yellow-orange, and fully orange fruit on the tree at the same time.

Resist the urge to rush the harvest—kumquats reward patience.

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How to Know When Kumquats Are Ready to Pick

This is the part everyone asks about.

A ripe kumquat will:

• Be fully orange in colour

• Feel slightly soft when gently squeezed

• Come off the branch easily

• Smell citrusy and fresh

Picking too early usually means a very sour surprise. I let mine fully colour up on the tree—and yes, I check them daily.

This is also when a quiet happy garden dance may occur.

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How to Eat and Use Kumquats

Kumquats are wonderfully versatile.

You can:

• Eat them fresh, whole, and unpeeled

• Add them to salads

• Make preserves or marmalade

• Candy them

• Use them for juice or infused water

They’re one of those fruits that feel fancy but are actually very simple.

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Common Kumquat Growing Mistakes

A few things to avoid:

• Harvesting too early

• Overwatering, especially in pots

• Poor drainage

• Not enough sunlight

Get those right, and kumquats are surprisingly forgiving.

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Final Thoughts

Kumquats may be small, but they bring a lot to the garden—beauty, flavour, and a steady sense of anticipation as they ripen.

If you’re looking for a citrus that’s productive, compact, and just a little bit different, kumquats are well worth growing.

And if you find yourself checking them every day?
Welcome to the club 🍊🌱

 Happy Gardening! 🍊

 The Grey-Haired Gardener 

Southern Blight: Why Plants Suddenly Wilt (and What I Do)

                                                    Rotting at the  soil level is one classical symptom of southern blight

Southern blight is one of the most frustrating problems I deal with in my garden here in Trinidad. Plants look healthy one day… and collapse the next—even when the soil is moist.

How I know it’s Southern Blight

I look right at the soil line. The signs are usually there:

• Sudden wilting

• Soft rot at the base of the stem

• White, fluffy growth around the stem

• Tiny tan or brown “mustard seed” balls on the soil

Once I see this, the plant rarely recovers.

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What Causes Southern Blight?

It’s caused by a soil fungus that loves:

• Heat

• Humidity

• Poor drainage

The fungus can survive in soil for years, so quick action really matters.

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What I Do Right Away

To stop it from spreading:

• Remove infected plants completely (roots and all)

• Don’t compost them—bag and dispose

• Clean tools after handling infected plants

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How I Manage It Long-Term

1️⃣ Improve Drainage

Southern blight thrives in wet soil.

• Space plants well

• Avoid mulch touching stems

• Water at the base, not overhead

2️⃣ Use Limestone Carefully

Southern blight prefers acidic soil.

• Limestone raises pH and discourages the fungus

• It also adds calcium and helps clay soil over time

Here in Trinidad, fine limestone (like Enlasa’s) works quickly because it dissolves fast.

Tip: Work it into the soil and water it in. Keep it away from plant stems.

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3️⃣ Build Better Soil

Clay soil + moisture = trouble.
I add organic matter regularly:

• Compost

• Aged manure

• Leaf mould

  Adding compost helps build better soil                 Credit: Greta Hoffman on Pexels.com

Raised or slightly mounded beds help a lot—especially for bodi, tomatoes, and sorrel.

Raised beds help to drain excess water from roots        

Credit: Helena Lopes on Pexels.com

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4️⃣ Rotate Crops

I avoid planting susceptible crops in the same spot every season.
Better options include:

• Corn

• Chives

• Amaranthus(Bhaji)

• Cassava and sweet potato

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The Takeaway

Southern blight is tough—but manageable.

What works best in my garden:
✔ Fast removal
✔ Better drainage
✔ Limestone (in moderation)
✔ Healthy soil

Once the soil improves, the plants do too 🌱

 Happy Gardening!

 The Grey-Haired Gardener

Periwinkles (Vinca): The Flower That Almost Grows Itself

Looking for non-stop colour with very little effort?

Periwinkles — also called vinca (or “old maid,” as we grew up calling it) — are one of the easiest, most reliable flowering plants you can grow.

They love heat, shrug off drought, and bloom like they’re paid by the flower.

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🌸 Why Grow Periwinkles?

• Thrive in full sun & hot weather

• Bloom continuously

• Perfect for beds, borders & pots

• Low-maintenance and beginner-friendly

• Available in white, pink, red, lavender, magenta & bicolours

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☀️ Sun & Soil

• Full sun = best flowering

• Well-drained soil is essential

• Avoid soggy ground (they hate wet feet)

  

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💧 Watering

• Water regularly when young

• Once established, water sparingly

• Overwatering causes more problems than underwatering

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🌱 Feeding

• Light, balanced fertilizer every 4–6 weeks

• Too much fertilizer, especially Nitrogen = leaves, not flowers

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✂️ Propagation

From seed: Easy in warm conditions
From cuttings: Snip, strip lower leaves, plant — roots form quickly

Seed pods along the mature stem             Seed pods and tiny black periwinkle seeds 

Recently thinned out Periwinkle seedlings in a seedling tray

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🐛 Pests & Problems

• Aphids on new growth

• Spider mites in very dry weather

• Root rot from overwatering

Good drainage prevents most issues.

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🌼 Simple Care Tip

Trim leggy plants occasionally for bushier growth — no deadheading required.

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🌿 Final Thoughts

If you want colour without commitment, periwinkles are hard to beat.
They’re tough, cheerful, and bloom through heat that makes other plants give up.

Happy garden dance! 💃🌸

The Grey-Haired Gardener

👉 Want more easy, heat-loving plants for Caribbean gardens?
Visit The Grey-Haired Gardener for simple tips, real-life growing advice, and plants that actually cooperate.

Cardboard as Mulch: Simple, Smart, Sustainable

What Cracked Soil Taught Me About Mulching

We’re barely two weeks into the dry season, and the ground has already started to crack. I didn’t notice it at first—until the grass was cut and the soil was left exposed. That’s when the cracks appeared, running through the ground like tiny fault lines. What caught my attention even more was the contrast: in areas where I had laid flattened cardboard boxes months ago to control unruly grass, the soil beneath was still slightly moist, with far fewer cracks. That small, unintentional experiment reminded me of something we often overlook in our gardens—bare soil suffers, and mulching matters.

                                Bare soil cracks quickly once the dry season begins

A Dry Season Wake-Up Call

In the Caribbean, the transition into the dry season can be sudden and unforgiving. Once vegetation is removed, soil is left exposed to sun, wind, and rapid moisture loss. Cracked soil isn’t just unsightly—it’s a sign of stress, compaction, and declining soil health.

An Accidental Mulching Experiment

I originally laid cardboard on the ground simply to control grass that had grown out of hand during the rainy season. No grand plan. No soil science experiment. But when the dry weather arrived, the results were impossible to ignore. Under the cardboard, the soil remained darker, cooler, and noticeably more moist than the surrounding exposed ground.

                                    Under cardboard, the soil stays cooler and more alive

Why Bare Soil Is a Problem

Leaving soil uncovered allows moisture to evaporate quickly, soil temperatures to rise, and beneficial organisms to retreat deeper underground—or disappear altogether. Plants growing in these conditions experience more stress, require more frequent watering, and struggle to establish healthy root systems.

Cardboard as Mulch: Simple, Smart, Sustainable

Using cardboard as mulch checks a lot of boxes:

• It upcycles waste that would otherwise be discarded

• It suppresses weeds without chemical weedicides

• It breaks down naturally and adds carbon to the soil

• It encourages soil life as it decomposes

It’s not fancy, but it’s incredibly effective.

                Dead grass, millipedes and adding carbon to the soil as it decomposes-win,win,win!

Less Water, Fewer Weeds, Happier Plants

Mulching with cardboard reduces moisture loss, keeps soil temperatures more stable, and limits weed growth by blocking light. The result? Less watering, fewer weeds to battle, and plants that cope better with dry-season stress.

             The area under the cardboard is weed free. How's that for chemical free weed control?

What’s Happening Below the Surface

Lift the cardboard and you’ll often find signs of life—millipedes, insects, and rich, crumbly soil. These organisms play a vital role in breaking down organic matter, improving soil structure, and supporting plant health. Healthy soil isn’t silent; it’s busy.

                                                Millipedes at work — a sign of active, healthy soil

More Benefits Than You Might Expect

Mulch also reduces soil splash during watering or rainfall, lowering the risk of soil-borne diseases reaching plant leaves. It protects shallow roots from heat stress and helps plants lose less moisture through their leaves during extreme conditions.

Mulching Beyond Cardboard

While cardboard works beautifully, it’s not the only option. Leaves, grass clippings, coconut husk, and wood chips can all serve as mulch. The key is simple: keep the soil covered.

The Takeaway

Bare soil is vulnerable soil. Mulching doesn’t have to be complicated or expensive to be effective. Sometimes, the simplest solutions—like a flattened cardboard box—can make the biggest difference, especially during the dry season.

Has Cardboard worked as a mulch or any other visible benefit for you? Share in the comments. we'd love to hear from you. Who knows, you may just inspire another fellow gardener.

 Happy Gardening!

 The Grey -Haired Gardener 

Rainy Day Rescue: When You Can’t Garden, You Propagate

 A rainy-day propagation ritual

The rain started before dawn and hasn’t let up. It drums steadily on the roof, pools in the garden beds I should be weeding, and quietly cancels all outdoor plans. There’s a list somewhere—always a list—of things that need doing outside. But today, the garden has decided otherwise.

Rain droplets on the window glass      Image Credit : Plantpool images - Pexel.com

When you can’t garden, you propagate.

I could clean the house. I should clean the house. But my eyes keep drifting to the potting bench in the covered shed, and suddenly I’m thinking about that leggy dahlia, the roses that could use a trim, the succulents spilling confidently over the edge of their pot.

This is how rainy-day propagation begins. Not with planning, but with that restless energy that needs somewhere to go.

                                Image Credit : Karolina Grabowska - www.kaboompics.com

There’s something deeply satisfying about setting up a small propagation station when you can’t be in the actual garden. I clear a space on the potting bench and gather my scissors, a few pots, and whatever rooting medium I have on hand. It’s gardening scaled down to fit under cover, but it scratches the same itch.

                                   Image credit: Anna Shvets - Pexels. com

The work itself is meditative. I snip, trim, and tuck cuttings into soil or set them carefully in water. Each one feels like a small act of faith—that roots will form, that new growth will come, that a few weeks from now I’ll have something to show for this grey afternoon. There’s no rush, no pressure. Just the quiet rhythm of making more from what I already have.

Quiet Work with a Long View

What I love most is that propagation is a long game. These cuttings won’t be garden-ready today or tomorrow. They’ll sit on the potting bench through more rainy days and sunny ones, quietly doing their invisible work beneath the surface.

By the time they’re ready to go back outside, I’ll have half-forgotten the afternoon that started them. But they’ll be there—small, green proof that rainy days aren’t lost days.

And honestly? Future me is always grateful.

Those cuttings become fillers for plants I’ve been meaning to replace. They turn into gifts for friends who admire a plant and ask, “Where did you get that?” They become insurance against my own forgetfulness—or the garden’s unpredictability.

                                                      Image Credit: Anna Khomutova- Pexels.com

So if you’re stuck inside today, watching the rain and trying to convince yourself to tackle the housework, maybe give yourself permission to ignore it. Pull out some pots instead. Take a few cuttings. Start something small that will quietly grow into something more.

The house will wait. It always does.

But that perfect propagation moment—when you’re itching to garden and have nowhere else to be—that’s worth capturing.

What about you? When the rain keeps you inside, what gardening work calls to you? I’d love to hear what keeps your hands busy and your mind in the garden when the weather won’t cooperate. Share in the comments—you might just inspire someone else’s rainy-day rescue.

 Happy Gardening!

 The Grey-Haired Gardener

Aphids on Citrus: Uninvited Guests on New Growth

Aphids and Fresh Citrus Growth: Here We Go Again

I was taking my usual morning stroll through the garden today when I noticed something wonderful — fresh new growth on my citrus trees. Those tender young leaves were practically glowing in the sunlight.

Then I looked a little closer… and there they were. Aphids. Tiny green and black bodies clustered all over the new shoots.

If you grow citrus, you’ve probably seen this movie before. There’s a reason aphids always seem to show up right when your trees are looking their best.

                A closer look at that ‘beautiful new growth’ — aphids wasting no time moving in.                                                                                 Credit: Shamela Rambadan

Why Aphids Love New Growth

Aphids are drawn to soft, new leaves like kids to an ice cream truck. That fresh growth is easy for them to pierce, and it’s full of the sugary sap they love. A flush of new citrus growth is basically an open buffet.

The good news? A few aphids won’t kill your tree.
The bad news? They multiply fast — really fast — and can weaken new growth, curl leaves, and leave behind that sticky honeydew that attracts ants and sooty mold.

    

                                            Soft new citrus growth = prime real estate for aphids.

🌿 Aphids on Citrus: At a Glance

Where they show up:
Tender new growth and soft young leaves

What they look like:
Tiny green or black insects clustered on shoots and leaf undersides

Why they’re there:
New growth is soft, juicy, and full of sugary sap — aphid heaven

Signs to watch for:

• Curled or distorted leaves

• Sticky residue (honeydew)

• Ants hanging around like they’ve been invited

What works for me:

• Strong spray of water to knock them off

• Letting beneficial insects do their thing

• Mild soap spray for heavier infestations

• Neem oil if they’re being extra stubborn

When to act:
A few aphids? Don’t panic.
Lots of aphids, curling leaves, or ants everywhere? Time to step in.

What I Do About Them

My first line of defense is always the simplest: a strong spray from the garden hose. Aphids are soft-bodied and surprisingly fragile. If I catch them early, a good blast every few days usually keeps things under control.

Next, I look for the good guys. Ladybugs, lacewings, and hoverfly larvae are nature’s aphid patrol. If I spot them, I back off and let them handle business. Sometimes the best pest control is a little patience.

                        Ladybird Beetles: Nature’s Aphid Control- these good guys started to move in

Adult lacewing insect                        Credit: Egor Kamelev from Pexels.com

If the infestation is heavier, I mix up a simple soap spray — just a few drops of dish soap in water. I spray it directly on the aphids in the early morning or evening. The soap breaks down their coating and they dry out. After a few hours, I rinse the leaves to be safe.

For stubborn cases, neem oil does the trick. It disrupts the aphids’ life cycle and is gentler on beneficial insects than harsher options.

When to Worry (and When Not To)

Here’s what experience has taught me: a few aphids aren’t worth losing sleep over. But if leaves are curling, everything feels sticky, or ants are marching up and down the tree like they own the place, it’s time to step in.

The key is regular checks during growth periods. Catch aphids early and dealing with them is quick and painless.

                                                    This is when I stop watching and start spraying.

Final Thoughts

Aphids are just part of gardening life — especially when you grow citrus. With a watchful eye and a few simple, natural remedies, you can keep them from ruining those beautiful new leaves.

Now, if you’ll excuse me, I have a garden hose and some very small tenants to evict. 🚿🐜🍊

Happy Gardening,

The Grey-Haired Gardener

Lemon Grass: The Quiet Overachiever of the Garden

      Image: Harvesting Lemongrass in Bangladesh       Credit: Mahmudul Hasan from Pexels.com

Lemon grass is one of those plants that doesn’t beg for attention — it just shows up, grows happily, and makes itself useful. No fuss, no drama, just steady green goodness.

I grow mine straight in the ground, and honestly, once it settles in, it practically takes care of itself. If you’re new to gardening or already growing herbs, lemon grass is one of those plants that makes you feel like you know exactly what you’re doing.

                                    An established clump of lemon grass growing happily in the ground.

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Getting Started: Propagation Made Easy

Lemon grass loves to multiply. A healthy clump sends outside shoots (little plantlets) that can be gently separated and replanted.

I usually wait until the plant looks nice and full, then:

• Dig around the base

• Separate a few side shoots with roots attached

• Replant them right away or pot them up

It’s one of the easiest plants to share or swap — and gardeners love a free lemon grass plant.

Side shoots forming at the base — these can be gently separated and replanted.

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Soil, Sun & Space

Lemon grass isn’t picky, but it does have preferences:

• Sun: Full sun is best

• Soil: Well-draining soil with a bit of organic matter

• Water: Regular watering, especially when young

If space is limited, it grows very well in a large pot. Just give it room — cramped lemon grass gets grumpy.

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Pests & Problems (Spoiler: Not Many)

This is a low-maintenance plant.

• Pests are rare

• Good airflow helps prevent fungal issues

• Trim away dead or dry leaves to keep it tidy

In my garden, it’s been refreshingly drama-free.

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Harvesting Without Fear

Harvesting lemon grass actually helps it grow better.

• Cut stalks at the base

• Remove the outer tough leaves

• Use the tender inner stalk

You can harvest as needed — no special timing required.

                                A freshly harvested lemon grass stalk trimmed and ready to use.

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Fresh or Dried? Both Work

• Fresh: Best for tea, cooking, and that unbeatable citrus aroma

• Dried: Slice thinly, air-dry, and store for later use

I use mine mostly fresh, straight from garden to kitchen. The distance is very short 😄

Lemon grass isn’t just a Caribbean favourite — it’s widely used in Thai, Chinese, and other Asian cuisines, adding a bright citrus note to soups, curries, and stir-fries.

                            The leaves and tender stalk — both useful in the kitchen, fresh or dried.

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My Go-To Lemon Grass Tea (With Ginger)

Also known locally in Trinidad as “fever grass”, lemon grass has long been brewed for fever, colds, or digestion. It’s a gentle home remedy that has earned its spot in kitchens for generations.

Most days, my lemon grass goes straight from the garden to the kitchen.

Here’s how I enjoy it:

You’ll need:

• 1–2 fresh lemon grass stalks, lightly crushed

• A few slices of fresh ginger

• Hot water

Steep for 5–10 minutes, strain, and enjoy.

On hot days, I love it served on ice — refreshing and soothing all at once.

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Why Lemon Grass Deserves a Spot

• Easy to grow

• Useful year-round

• Great for beginners

• Generous enough to share

• A little herbal helper when you’re under the weather

It may not be flashy, but lemon grass earns its keep quietly — and that’s exactly why I love it.

(Cue happy garden dance… but calmly.)

 

Happy Gardening🌸

The Grey-Haired Gardener